Fearless Travel

I had to walk to the American University in Cairo’s main campus on my first day, which is not that arduous - or at least far away. This is at the time of the “old” campus which was located in downtown Cairo on Midan al Tahrir.

Anyway, I had to cross a side-street when a white-and-black cab zoomed past me, blaring its horn as it swerved around me. Then the cabbie yelled at me the whole way up the street - traffic was going the same speed as someone on foot (it was that crowded ) - only stopping when one of the ubiquitous Egyptian police stepped out of his kiosk and advanced toward the cabbie.

The city is a study in contrasts; there are towering minarets and grandiose tunr-of-the-century buildings flanked by a Hardees, Pizza hut, KFC, and McDonald. I saw a fairly new BMW get backed into, gouged along the driver’s side, and then promptly left by the driver of a rusty-red car of unidentifiable make.

As it got toward sunset, and the temperature began to drop, the winds picked up. The wind carried with it fine particulate that gets everywhere; inside electronics, clothes, sinks, etc.

That first night was not uncomfortable, though the day was in the 90’s. The wind was steady and the room of my apartment was spacious enough that the breeze and ceiling fan kept me cool all night. I was awoken by the 4am call to prayer though, it was a surreal experience - this wave of calls starting at the most distant was added to a second later by nearer calls, then nearer yet, and then nearest of all - each a second after each other. It was amazing - though a little disconcerting to someone who had spent several year in the Mid West with nighttime sirens and warnings being a bad thing - but had woken me out of my Jet-lagged sleep a little early for my tastes.  I have written below what they are saying in English (each line is repeated twice) followed by a rough transliteration of what it sounds like in Arabic;

“God is Greatest!” Allahu Akbar!
“God is Greatest!” Allahu Akbar!
“Witness that there is no god but God!” Yushahid an laa lah illa Allah
“Witness that there is no god but God!” Yushahid an laa lah illa Allah
“Witness that Mohammad is God’s messenger!” Yushahid an Muhammad rasuul Allah
“Witness that Mohammad is God’s messenger!” Yushahid an Muhammad rasuul Allah
“Now is the time to pray.” Ha ‘ala A’Salaah
“Now is the time to pray.” Ha ‘ala A’Salaah
“Now is the time to plow/work (the fields)” Ha ‘ala Al’Falaah
“Now is the time to plow/work (the fields)” Ha ‘ala Al’Falaah

The call lasts maybe two or three minutes, and is repeated five times during the day; early morning, sunrise, noon, sunset, and evening.

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